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BMW E65 E66 Rolls Phantom REMOTE START DIY INSTRUCTIONS

We are happy to introduce our first custom designed unique remote start module. I think everyone knows what remote start is and why you need it (of course you can survive without it), but here are few reasons:

Engine warm up: Did you know why BMW shows warm up line on your tachometer and they don’t want you to rev engine (DME is coded to reduce RPM before it warms up) to avoid bearings failure due to poor lubrication???? it is always good to warm up your engine and transmission before driving especially in cold weather. All moving parts of your engine will benefit from better warmer oil temps. Engine oil has much better lubrication specs when warmed up. Some mechanics will tell you its OK to drive right away, but its not true and people have no idea how oil works, no wonder why commercial trucks and cabs can get up to 1mln miles or more out of the engine. The worst wear and tear happens on the first cold start. Every cold start~ roughly 5000mls engine life and even more for diesel engine due to higher compression ratio.
Interior warm up or cool down in hot or cold weather, it will also defrost your windows and mirrors quick, so you don’t have to wait and put yourself in danger due to poor visibility etc. With extra module you can even schedule starts every day and check status of your engine and shock sensors. Most convenient feature in hot climate areas. Imagine you parked your car in Miami or Houston 110F +40C weather and how nice it is to enjoy cooled down interior and your leather seat is not frying hot anymore. Will also prevent leather wear and tear if you keep interior ventilated in the summer. You can schedule remote starts every hour or so. Imagine how much leather interior costs in 760li or Rolls Royce Phantom?

If you drive short distances it will recharge your battery at least for extra 15-20 mins.

Here We will describe how to install remote start module on any BMW e65/66/RR. Some people say it might be very complex, in fact its very easy and if you can replace a light bulb in your car, you can install this module yourself. This module was custom designed&built by us, so you will not find any solution anywhere else at least yet and its quite inexpensive, only 350$ shipped. Some people ask why is it so expensive? Well it depends what to call expensive: remote start HONDA CIVIC OR SUCH will cost you 300-400$ installed and you will have extra bulky remote and its not high tech by any means and installation is 100 times more complex (YOU NEED TO CONNECT BRAKE SWITCH, DOOR SWITCHES, ETC AND ITS ALL MECHANICAL CONNECTIONS) than our module AND NOT SAFE, BECAUSE IT OPERATES HIGH CURRENT RELAYS AND IF INSTALLATION DONE UNPROFESSIONALLY YOU MIGHT BURN YOUR CAR, UNLIKE OUR MODULE IS FULLY INTEGRATED INTO ALL BMW MODULES AND IT DOES NOT OPERATE ANY HIGH CURRENT RELAYS OR SUCH, YOU CAN SEE HOW THIN OUR WIRES ARE, AND OUR MODULE COMMUNICATES USING 8 BIT MICROPROCESSOR AND FULLY PROGRAMMABLE AND TALKS TO CAS AND IHKA MODULE THE WAY BMW DESIGNED AND YOU DO NOT NEED TO BUY EXTRA REMOTE AND HIDE IT IN THE CAR (REDNECK REMOTE START SOLUTION). SO OUR REMOTE START CAN BE CALLED FACTORY REMOTE START MODULE, SINCE IT WORKS ON TOP OF THE CAS MODULE. AND ITS VERY VERY SMALL AND CAN BE HIDDEN VERY EASY NEAR CAS MODULE.

Tools needed:

Torx T25 screwdriver
Some sharp pick tool or scalpel
***BMW NCS &INPA installed on your laptop with OBD DCAN cable
Pair of good hands:)

*** We will provide free coding if you don’t have equipment or experience, plus we can code extra options if needed (open windows from remote, LED replacement coding so no errors on the dash, fold mirrors from remote)

Installation process can be divided in 2 easy steps:

INSTALLATION & CODING/PROGRAMMMING

INSTALLATION ONLY 6 WIRES (4 posi taps and 2 insert contacts):

Disconnect negative wire from your battery as a precaution, though its not necessary
Remove plastic panel on top of the climate control module, it simply pops out. Use some flat plastic panel remover tool or credit card. Unscrew (1) 4 T25 screws holding central vent. Gently Push central vent out of the panel, Disconnect central vent sensor connectors. Check pictures:

Remove CAS and IHKA connectors. Check pictures:

Remove actual pin connectors from the housings. Use some sharp pick tool or scalpel or knife to release tabs on each connector. Each connector has special direction lock so you can’t install them wrong and has numbers on it. Check pictures:

Find appropriate wires from remote start module connector and connect them according to this diagram. I recommend installing POSI TAPS connectors further away from housings, so you can close it easy. Just move down factory isolation tape for some extra space. You need to insert 2 contacts female pins and tap 4 wires into existing wires. Please make sure you follow this diagram (click to enlarge):

Once all wires connected properly, please connect actual remote start module. If everything was done correctly, you should see emergency blinker flashing 3 times. It will only do it once, after you connected the module. This means everything was connected properly and module can talk to your CAS module, this is very important step. You cannot proceed if you didn’t see flashing. To confirm, you can disconnect it again and connect it, so you see the confirmation flashing again. Now Emergency blinker will be used to program your keys and features.
*** Blue wire from remote start module can be used to add additional remote start module to extend the range or it can be used with GSM module, so you can start it from anywhere in the world where cellular network is present. By default its programmed to start the vehicle once +12V is present on this wire. You can install Viper car alarm with SMARTSTART module, this way you can start it anywhere with cellular network. This is additional feature and not supported in all countires.

CODING&PROGRAMMING (we can code it remotely if you don’t have equipment)

Assuming everything was installed correctly in the first step, we need to code CAS module to accept commands from our remote start module. This very important, because it will not accept anything from our module otherwise.

If battery replacement was never registered, you should register it using INPA or ISTA. It might not start the engine if battery is weak or not registered

Add $539 and code CAS and IHKA modules, for American and Canada market you need to change FA code as well. Note: if you have WEBASTO heater and you would like to also start your heater remotely, please add $536 option as well. Last number of the FA code should be changed from 3 to 1.Example FA code with added $539 option and changed last digit from 3 to 1: E65_#0906&U6SW%0475$1CA$229$248$252$255$2EA$2VB$302$316$319$322$323$330$358$403$415$416$423$430$431$438$441$442$451$453$456$464$470$488$494$496$508$521$524$534$539$609$620$645$655$672$677$691$697$760$845$850$853$925$992$9AA*HL81-LEDE

Now after you coded CAS and IHKA modules with NCS Expert, our remote start module can talk to CAS and IHKA, so you have to program remote start module to your CAS, by using this technique shown on the video or use diagram below. Door locks MUST respond accordingly just like on the video. If you didn’t see this confirmation, it means you didn’t count pauses, or CAS hasn’t been coded with $539 option and last number hasn’t been changed. You can not proceed if you didn’t see module pairing confirmation with door locks and eergency blinker!

Now after remote start module has been paired successfully with your CAS module, we need to store our factory remote keys in the remote start module memory. It supports up to 6 remotes. Please follow the video to pair your factory remotes with the module. If you didn’t see this confirmation, it means you didn’t count pauses between pressing buttons, or CAS hasn’t been coded with $539 option and last number hasn’t been changed. You can not proceed if you didn’t see module pairing confirmation with door locks and emergency blinker!

If all steps went through successfully and assuming factory remote works good and alarm beeps once after you lock it , you should be able to start your vehicle by pressing lock button on your remote 3 times and stop the engine by pressing it 2 times. By pressing lock button 5 times you can start WEBASTO aux heater if your car equipped with it. Every second press of the lock button will be confirmed by turn signal blinkers, so you know it accepted your commands.

Congratulations, everything was done properly. If you have doubts you can code it, we can always help remotely and send you the equipment, plus you will get free full diagnostic (300$ at the dealer by the way). 300$ deposit will be refunded upon receiving the equipment. Do not hesitate and contact us by email or call (415)323-3412.

Conditions it will not start the engine:

it didn’t beep once, after you locked your vehicle. Possible reasons: Hood open or hood switch faulty (you can disconnect it, this way your car thinks it is always locked), any door open or trunk.
Low fuel level in the fuel tank. Less than 60mls range or 100km. Make sure fuel level sensor is working correctly
Battery is weak or not registered

This remote start is very sophisticated and incorporates all safety features built into the CAS from factory:

Will not let anyone drive it without remote key. If you don;t have comfort access you will need to insert the key in order to switch gear selector. Otherwise it will not let you select gears or rev the engine.
It will turn off itself after 15 minutes, if no one opened the car.
Automatically sets up 72F temperature with AC to cool down or heat up interior.
Will not let anyone with remote key operate any controls inside the vehicle, otherwise it will shut off everything.

BMW ENGINE LAG PROBLEM

2 Replies

BMW N62 GAS PEDAL ENGINE LAG!

On BMW N62, N63 and other engines especially e65, e66, e60, e63, e64 series most likely you might experience some gas pedal lag delay or uneven power delivery at lows. It feels like you press on it and engine barely revs from lows or it revs, but you have to press it harder to feel it. Assuming engine and tranny do not have any problems and all other components run as they should, I mean no vacuum leaks, all sensors read correct values etc, but still it feels like gas pedal is slow at lows, usually in the city driving. Funny part BMW will tell you its normal lag because of drive by wire nowadays standard, though there was no delay on m62tu engines with similar drive by wire gas pedal back in 1999. Lots of people buy some magic gas pedal boosters 200-300$, but they should understand, that this booster simply sends 2x signal to DME (engine brain),so it basically feels like you press 2x harder. This method (if you call it a method) is not a good one for a few reasons:

-it will make your car less smoother or some say it fells jerky

-not safe, you can easily rear end someone in the city

-premature transmission wear and tear

-overall more stressful for the engine and tranny

-higher gas consumption

-overpriced 200$+

So we have been looking for a solution for a while and looks like we found it!!!

and its all original BMW OEM. You simply need to replace your gas pedal assembly with the newest one they sell at the dealers or online, but make sure they sell you the newer design, because newer pedal assembly is way better and has newer chip built in, also it has newer pedal design, so it wont get sticky if dirt or water gets there. You will be really surprised, that the lag will be gone and bmw will perform like it should without any lag from lows and overall will make it fell much smoother. Look at these pics:

newer part number is: 35426859999

you will find this pedal installed on the newest BMW F series

you can get it form the dealer or online, just make sure they sell you newer design only, because lots of sellers still have old pedals in stock.

newer gas pedal design:

older gas pedal design:

It is very easy to remove it, just remove plastic cap, unscrew the metal screw 2, and then disconnect a connector. Install a new one and done! you can reset engine adaptations, but not very necessarily, it will work as is.

Basically BMW updated gas pedal design for that reason, but of course they didn’t recall it, so they know this problem really well, otherwise why they completely redesigned it??

This modification will work on any BMW with similar part numbers.

ALL BMW M54, M52, M60, M62, M62tu, M56, N62, N62B48tu and others!! Engine Overheating? No its not a head gasket problem!

6 Replies

Ok, i decided to create this post because i see lots of bimmers running hot or even overheating. You would say nothing new here, right? Well believe it or not lots of mechanics or shops trying to resolve this problem with no luck and in the end as a final solution they offer head gasket repair, which won’t fix anything.

So here are the main standard problems, applies to any water cooled engine:

Radiator cap not sealing well or valve inside is not working anymore causing boiling in your cooling system due to pressure loss. Solution? replace radiator cap every 5 years even if its good.
Any coolant leak will create pressure loss and introduce air in the system. Make sure there is no leaks. Use Pressure tester.
Thermostat if bad, it stays open on these engines, and you usually get error code P0128 if heater inside burned or you get thermostat jammed error code. usually tstat lasts 70-100k easily.
Water pump impeller can slip or even fall apart or bearing might seize causing total failure. Good thing these engines head gaskets are very strong and can sustain serious overheating.
REPLACE TEMP SENSORS EVERY 70KMLS, THEY DO GO BAD AND SOMETIMES SHOW LOWER TEMPS THEN IT IS, ESPECIALLY WATER PUMP TEMP SENSOR, LOWER SENSOR IS KNOWN FOR O-RING LEAK, APPLIES TO ANY BIMMER.
Main engine fan (electric) is bad or fan clutch not working anymore, though even with a bad fan clutch and fully working cooling system you will not get overheating, unless you are in Dubai traffic:) AC fan is very effective even with a bad fan clutch. Since 2004 BMW uses only electric fan for both AC and engine, so if it goes bad, you will get overheating.

So, i was not going to create simple overheating article you can find anywhere, right? Its gotta be unique on this site! Here we go:

So what to do if there is no leaks and all hoses are new, gaskets etc, pressure tester confirmed no pressure loss, but engine still runs hot overheating transmission as well??? Did you know running hot will destroy all rubber gaskets and other rubber parts? Why? Because engine temps are not consistent like it was designed! Ok, here is something nobody cares about when trying to fix overheating issues:

NORMAL TEMPS FOR 6cyl=94-98 max

NORMAL TEMPS FOR 8cyl=103-108 max

TO CHECK RUNNING TEMPS YOU NEED TO OPEN HIDDEN MENU:

1) hold reset odometer button until you see the menu

2) go to 19 unlock menu (press button once) and enter (hold the button to enter) the sum of your last 5 vin numbers:

ex: last vin 23657, so sum=2+3+6+5+7=23

3) now go back to menu 7 and hold the button until you see running temps, if you don’t, it means you enter unlock code wrong:

here is a picture of running temps with RECALIBRATED 87C thermostat, these are actually really good temperatures for this and other V8 engines! It will keep your cooling system healthy and will prolong the life of all rubber gasket seals including valve seals. Moreover it will reduce detonation so you’ll get extra power in the city driving! Imagine lowering cooling pressure from 200 to 120??? 200 is what your tire pressure is. It is a big deal, all rubber gaskets run under serious stress and we see tons of exploded hoses, coolant tanks and other expensive leaks like:

wheep hole 2000$ if you install oem pipe

rear cover plate (Tranny needs to be removed)

valley pan (intake removal needed)

Soon we will offer these cooler temp tstats.

HEATER CONTROL VALVE! THIS VALVE DOES NOT LAST! RUBBER SEALS INSIDE BECOME BRITTLE, CLOGGING UP THE COOLANT CHANNELS GOING TO THE HEATER CORE! RESULT IS OBVIOUS=YOU CANNOT BLEED THE AIR OUT OF HEATER CORE=OVERHEATING! THIS ENGINE HAS SELF BLEEDING COOLANT SYSTEM, BUT IT WILL NOT WORK IF THIS VALVE IS CLOGGED.

HERE IS DISASSEMBLED HEATER VALVE FROM 2006 750LI with 98kmls. As you can see rubber seals are cracked and not flexible anymore, BUT if you have working auxillary water pump, you still get okay heat cabin, but system has air pocket, since you need very good flow when bleeding coolant system.

HERE IS THE MAIN PROBLEM: YOU SHOULD SEE A NICE RUBBER SEAL AROUND THE VALVE, BUT ITS ALL BROKEN AND THE WORST PART IT CLOGGED RIGHT CHANNEL COMPLETELY:

SO GOOD RECOMMENDATION IS TO REPLACE IT EVERY 5-7 YEARS AND START EVERY COOLANT SYSTEM PROBLEM FROM THIS VALVE REPLACEMENT. IF THIS VALVE IS GOOD YOU CAN DRIVE YOUR CAR EVEN WITH LEAKING COOLANT (I KNOW ITS NOT A GOOD IDEA), BUT YOU WILL NOT GET OVERHEATING ISSUES IF YOU KEEP ADDING COOLANT, BECAUSE ENGINE WILL BLEED ITSELF ALL THE TIME IF HEATER CORE HAS NO AIR POCKETS. REMEMBER COOLANT SYSTEM IS THE MOST IMPORTANT SYSTEM IN YOUR CAR!

SO UNTIL YOU SEE OIL IN THE COOLING SYSTEM, OR COOLANT IN THE OIL OR EXHAUST SMELL FROM COOLANT TANK, DO NOT BELIEVE IN THE HEAD GASKET FAILURE. WHEN HEAD GASKET IS BAD, YOU WILL KNOW IT FOR SURE:) V8, IS VERY STRONG ENGINE AND ITS NOT EASY TO DESTROY HEAD GASKET BY JUST OVERHEATING, DOESN’T APPLY TO STRAIGHT 6 THOUGH….